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The Age, A2 – In shops, 2 June 2007, Pg. 8

OC OSCARCALVO | WINTER 2006

The Age, A2, 2 June 2007, Pg. 8

In Shops: Oscar Calvo

Janice Breen Burns

What
Oscar Calvo (O.C.) menswear and cherry-picked bits from a dozen other men’s and women’s brands.

How much
O.C. comic-print shirts $150, merino wool jumpers $300, Italian wool pants $200, cotton cords $160, cargo pants $140, bomber hoodie with merino trim $375 and tailored jackets lined with comic print $350, graphic-patterned tees, $80

Where:
Oscar Calvo flagship shop: 153 Johnston Street, Collingwood, VIC.

www.oscarcalvo.com.au

It’s been a long time coming, this shop. The eponymous menswear brand fathered in 2004 by young Melbourne designer Oscar Calvo, has hiccupped through its teething years, as new breed brands tend to do, but is finally installed in the retail space it genuinely deserves. Calvo is a perfectionist and relentless marketeer whose fresh, small-run range of finely finished, graphic-patterned T and polo shirts, sporty European-style casuals and tailored separates has been compared to Polo Ralph Lauren’s and bits of Hugo Boss. But praise to the rafters doesn’t always pay the rent or lure the hordes so Calvo is also renowned for the cheerful admission that he washes dishes part-time to keep his dream of a golden future afloat. His belief that O.C. would rocket one day never faltered; he just didn’t know when.

This new boutique is a leap closer to his version of Nirvana. Calvo has racked his own collection – he describes it as: “eclectic and sophisticated, retro and modern” – with a mixture of complementary local brands, and a handful from overseas. Among the Melburnians are Boski hand-printed and embroidered separates (Calvo calls them “eye candy”), Ristefskymacheda’s loose and soft lounge and underwear and Nikoroo’s retro ’70s handprinted T-shirts – all for men. Santhaking hand-crafts shoes for both men and women, and Miss Lyndel Yeo’s edgy Tokyo street chic and Caro’s more sophisticated designs are racked exclusively for women. Among the imports, Calvo ordered in a selection of Danish brand Pilgrim men’s fine jewellery and British women’s label Golddigga track tops, tees, jeans and jackets.

The Age – Look the goods, 6 April 2007, Pg.

OC OSCARCALVO | WINTER 2006

The Age, 6 April 2007, Pg. 12

Metro | FASHION

LOOK THE GOODS

Men’s wear designers and buyers give fashion editor Janice Breen Burns their list of vital items for winter.

Somewhere between nutcracker skinny jeans and puckered off-the-rack suits, is the perfect combination of wardrobe items waiting to make life slippery-smooth and dressing dead easy for the average Aussie bloke.

This ideal wardrobe combo is not a myth. It strikes the right balance between masculinity and modernity, offers easily assembled ensembles for every casual and corporate occasion, plus the odd fancy accessory for Saturday nights. It is neither too fashionable nor too bland, and so neatly straddles that icy-thin line between most blokes’ fundamental fashion needs: to stand out in a crowd now and then, and be just one of the boys most of the time.

The ideal men’s wardrobe will work like Lego: this, plus that, plus these, makes a man look the goods. Here, buyers and designers who do a crack job servicing blokes’ tricky sartorial needs, give their key formula for winter 2007.

ARTHUR GALAN

AG Clothing

“What’s hot? Grungy grandpa cardigans: ‘Preppy boy meets Kurt Cobain.’ Wear with a velvet trim and pockets, and match to a slim-line tee or a micro-collared shirt. Also, the detachable hood pea (coat) is the ultimate coat for a classic shape and edgy urban, street feel. Waistcoats: high society style in velvets, wool and knits. The three piece suit also makes a big comeback this season, with an eccentric yet tailored spin. Wear it with a micro-collared shirt and denim for that mismatched, ‘Lord of the Manor’ look.”

THEO POULAKIS

Harrolds boutiques

“Slim tailored lines and velvet in many dark, smouldering colours are a must-have for sports jackets. There’s a rococo and baroque revival, and the theme carries through in fabrics, detailing and colour: chocolates, plums, navy, grey and black. Give clothes a real impact by using scarves, umbrellas, gloves, hats and bags to make a total look.”

OC OSCARCALVO

Oscar Calvo

“The winter silhouette is fitted, following the slim silhouette set in 2006. Necklines are dipping lower, getting wider with scoops and V-shapes. Wear a three-piece suit with tailored plain shirt, thin belts, pointy boots, and a thin scarf long enough so you can wrap it several times around the neck. For casual, a slightly relaxed but tailored shape works in cropped hooded jackets paired with striped knitted sweaters and skinny cords. For casual and club, jeans still rule; slimmer and slimmer, especially around the ankles.”

BRENT WILSON

Brent Wilson

“Smooth silhouettes in moody colours: blacks, navies, shades of grey with splashes of red and purple to highlight beautiful tailoring and elongated proportions. We’ve left behind the ripped T-shirts and the ‘I don’t give a shit’ look, and are finally moving back to where men’s wear should be. Fitted suits with both one and two buttons, skinny ties, double breasted pea and trench coats mixed with super-fitted shirts, T-shirts and jumpers in tonal colours. The drainpipe pant can be worn in an array of fabrics — denim and wool, just to name a couple — and are ideal with a glossy dinner shoe, or pick a trainer for a more relaxed look.”

MARIO-LUCA CARLUCCI AND PETER STRATEAS

Trimapee

“Heavy wool knits are essential items; whether a casual zip-up hoody, or long knitted wool jacket, they’re perfect for work or casual. Wool coats, too, with detachable hoods and angular forms to make the transition from day to night. Leather is another key item. Think vintage styling with modern features. T-shirts are staples too: great fit, monochromatic, and (with) original artwork.”

ROSS JONES

Men’s wear buyer, Jay Jays stores

“A hint of grunge is back, but with a modern twist; the khaki parka for example, paired with clean, crisp jeans. And add a striped knit for a look that’s very now.

BRENDAN CONROY

Blend product manager, Just Jeans stores

“The biker jacket: rock star cool and extremely practical. For winter, there’s been a shift away from the distressed styles of denim, to a clean, crisp look. Boot-cut jeans in a traditional blue wash are key this winter.”

LUCY MARTINO

Designer, Russell Athletic men’s wear

“Shades of grey, khaki, and utility green, worn with winter brights. Orange is becoming strong, too, along with all tones of green, from vintage to acid. The strongest silhouettes are sherpa, waffle or double-thick lined fleece sweats, striped or printed patterned fleece and combat-style cargos.”

KAMING NG

Manvious men’s wear

“It’s back to basics, with a stylish touch of the 1920s. It’s all about style, quality and cut. A heavy wool knit with low V-cut, coordinated with a large patterned woolly scarf and a pair of well-cut casual cotton (or) linen pants for casual wear. No acid-bright colours or any crash-colour combinations. All should be harmonious: coffee, charcoal, black, cream, white and red. For corporate: pin-striped and plain suits with classic textured weaves and high, thin lapels; narrow ties; plain or classic patterned white shirts. Fine multi-striped shirts are all good, but avoid any bright colours. Pleat-front trousers are on the way back with narrow, straight legs. For club wear, subtle details on shirts, and T-shirts with 3D effect prints, paired with classic-cut jeans rather than worn-out and washed jeans.

SHANDOR GANCS

Partner with Boyd Parry, Leopold men’s wear

“The emergence of luxe and glamour; a sophisticated approach. Classic styles are the foundation: trench coats, three-piece suits and knitwear. A key element is the blazer, in tweed, Prince of Wales, velvet or herringbone, inspired by hunting sports and British country life. Knitwear is also essential: cardigans, vests, cable knits, V-necks, and chunky, over-sized knits in fine wool or cashmere.”

LUKE LONGO

Buyer, Aquila shoe stores

“You can’t go past a classic elastic-sided boot; a versatile style that can be worn dressed-down with jeans and a casual tee, or teamed with slacks and a shirt — funky enough to wear to a club or bar. For suits, the basic lace-up. Not too fl ashy though, which can sometimes be off-putting in serious business meetings. Think simple but stylish; shoes that exude that effortless look the British male does so well.”

Oscar Calvo The Age – Boys on the brink, 21 November 2005, Pg. 1 & 2

Oscar Calvo | SUMMER 2005/06

The Age – Boys on brink, 21 November 2005, Pg.  the November 21, 2005, Pg 1 & 2

Creative & Media

Boys on the brink

An increasing drive for individual style is fuelling a local men’s wear revolution. Janice Breen Burns meets the young designers leading the pack.

SELLING frocks to women is hard enough but try flogging skinny green jeans and dropped-crotch sweatpants or embroidered shirts to a market that takes three seasons to calm down after switching its necktie stripes from diagonal to vertical.

That’s men’s wear. And, that’s the Everest being tackled by a new species of designers more adventurous and optimistic, if not more talented, than any that’s risen before in Melbourne fashion.

They are passionate fashion consumers themselves but most also have a vague sense of something momentous impending in men’s wear. “It’s a gut feeling and it’s international,” says designer Shandor Gancs, 31. He started his high-fashion anti-streetwear men’s label, Leopold, barely a year ago with partner Boyd Parry, 27, and a simple plan: “To give men more diversity within that (rigid) concept of masculinity; more that they could get away with.”

With a prayer and spare cash from their Element design consultancy, they introduced Leopold from a tiny stand in the Source exhibition at Australian Fashion Week in Melbourne.

They snagged enough media and stylists to whip up a minor frenzy, picked up a dozen stockists, were asked to design a range of sunglasses by Polaroid (which sold like hotcakes) and, by a stroke of luck, also lured the director of London’s College of Fashion to the buzz. He chose Leopold to be one of six world-class new labels for his own new business, “In pursuit of luxury”. In just a few months, Leopold’s world was transformed.

Gancs and Parry still prop up their income with consulting work but right now they are also snug in the knowledge that Mongolian cashmere versions of their knitwear are in production at the same Scottish factory used by Chanel and in a month will be racked in prestige stores in London, Tokyo and Stockholm with $2500 price tags – each. (Local versions in lamb’s wool will sell for a more realistic $400.)

The extraordinary Leopold scenario didn’t quite happen for another sharp young Melbourne designer, Oscar Calvo. But he is convinced it will – eventually. In the meantime, he washes dishes part-time to keep his self-named label of slick sportswear afloat, refine his supply chain systems, and pay for double-page ads in the right magazines.

He has already had department store buyers liken his label to Paul Smith, Polo Ralph Lauren and Hugo Boss but that’s not enough. “For price point and quality, my label’s with Boss, my fabrics and workmanship, my details, buttons, zips – everything’s top end. But, I don’t have strong enough branding yet.”

Some of the canniest small-store buyers have picked up the Calvo collection but what he really needs now is a big breakthrough order.

“There’s been a great build up,” says Calvo of his first year on retail racks. “A lot of noise and racket; some great editorials in fashion journals and street magazines.”

His optimism is relentless, despite setbacks such as a $10,000 Sydney order that soured and after a quick flick through his smart striped cotton polo tops and picky-finished casuals, you can understand why.

“I know the product can sell, is selling but it’s got to be branded better,” he says.

It’s a common obstacle for new manufacturers. Men shop for clothes less often and more cautiously than women. And they respond to obvious signals, such as a recognisable logo, to assure them a garment will give them status and that they got a good deal. It’s a rare bloke who will pay top dollar for clothes by a label he doesn’t know.

But between men who stick to corporate suits or jeans-and-T-shirt combinations, there’s a market that’s changing. “More men are becoming alternative and open-minded,” says Mario-Luca Carlucci, 21, an industrial design graduate and partner in one of Melbourne’s star labels, Trimapee.

With Peter Strateas, also 21 and a communications design graduate, he built the label from a hand-printed T-shirt business that helped fund their studies, into a sophisticated range of high-end shirts and tailored separates.

In the tough times, Carlucci says, they drew inspiration from labels such as Kwamee by Francis, a Melbourne-based label of peerless quality high-end fashion tailoring and sportswear with classic undertones, and Mjolk, also a slick high-end local with a distinct, European bent. Mjolk’s Swedish partners, Fredrik Jonsson and Lars Stoten, chose Melbourne as a springboard into Asia. They split their company time and production between Australia and Europe and sell around the world.

Carlucci and Strateas have a similar trajectory in mind. They design their collections using a computer-aided drafting program, are sticklers for fit and quality, and base their collections on a different theatrical theme each season.

Currently, a vampire theme is lending an artful, offbeat, slightly wicked bent to the brand. It’s a complicated, clever ploy, and, Carlucci says, it’s getting their name out there: “We’ve made a lot of sacrifices and we still work part-time and do freelance design work to support (Trimapee) but we’re slowly cutting back on that.”

Carlucci says he and Strateas began designing for themselves but wound up attracting an older market in their 20s and 30s as well: “Architects, designers, musicians but also trades people, plumbers . . .”

‘The will to express something more creative than membership of a corporate army is increasingly common.’

It does appear, according to the new men’s wear designers here, that no particular demographic has a monopoly on high-end men’s fashion. Work boots and corporate suits enter some of Melbourne’s most adventurous shops: Husk, Fat, Cyberia, Urban Identity, Cactus Jam, Sandonista and David Jones’ designer floors.

The will to express something more creative and personal than membership of a corporate army is, apparently, increasingly common. Designers Stephen Ristefsky, 31, and Vincent Macheda, 27, of the RistefskyMacheda label, hope that it doesn’t end at a bloke’s front door.

“We figured that if you’re wearing a beautiful suit all day, you don’t want to wear just an old tracksuit or jeans when you come home,” Ristefsky says. The pair’s idea, to fill a niche market for men’s “loungewear”, found instant rapport with a David Jones buyer, and all they had to do was work out where it should go on the store floor. “We agonised over that and thought in the end, with pyjamas and dressing gowns,” Ristefsky says. “There’s that fluidity and freedom, even though it’s more fashion.”

Ristefskymacheda’s dream run over the highest hurdle for fashion fledglings, the department store order, came at a cost: a full year to prepare their management systems before they even sketched the first sample.

They now supply four David Jones stores with soft ruched pants, detailed tops and jackets that are as comfortable as pyjamas but also fitted for a range of body types and presentable and fashionable enough for entertaining casually at home or mixing with a Sunday cafe crowd.

“We’re feeling very enthusiastic and positive now,” Ristefsky says. “We’re defining our niche,” Macheda adds. “We also know that people will follow us into this and we have no problem with people copying us; we’re already developing a cult following and our market knows we were here first.”

KINGS OF THE CATWALK HOT LOOKS FOR COOL MEN

OSCAR CALVO

Established: 2004, by Oscar Calvo, 27, in Richmond. Self-named label of Kangan Batman TAFE fashion graduate and former area manager for Barbara Wilson, Oscar Calvo. High-end, fresh-coloured sportswear in exclusive European fabrics including fine wool and cotton. Casual combed cotton, raw-edged polo tops, retro cotton polo knits with nautical stripes, quirky printed tees with contrasting panels. Trousers range from classic soft Italian wool to straight-leg cotton drill versions with intricate stitch detail.

Manufactured: Current range is split evenly between Australia and Hong Kong. Winter 2006 will be made locally.

Targets: Young men, 16-35 years. Price range: $150-$500. Twelve stockists including Husk, Loft, Bolis, Urban Identity, Exentrix, Village Idiom and Browse.

Future plans: For now, the first Oscar Calvo flagship store.

info@oscarcalvo.com.au

http://www.oscarcalvo.com.au

TRIMAPEE

Established: 2003, by RMIT industrial design graduate Mario-Luca Carlucci, 21, and partner Peter Strateas, 21, RMIT communications design graduate, in Ivanhoe. Alternative, high-quality original designs and artwork for a broad market. Flamboyant and eccentric, based around a different theatrical theme each season but within the bounds of good design. Spring/summer inspired by the circus. A vivid palette, unexpected patterns and fabrics, intricate linings, detailed embroidery, darted collars, large cuffs, pleat detailing. Trousers are cut low, T-shirts hand-printed and feature unexpected necklines. Blazers are re-invented in explosive colour.

Manufactured: Locally

Targets: Men, 20-40 years. Price range: $99-$495. Thirteen stockists including Husk, Rich, Shuba, Oska, Jorj, Alchimia, Bolis, Charlie & Co, Sammy T, Toyah.

Future plans: Local consolidation, then export.

trimapee@iprimus.com.au

http://www.trimapee.com

LEOPOLD

Established: 2004, in Prahran by partners Boyd Parry, 27, La Trobe University arts/business graduate and designer of Mank women’s wear label and Shandor Gancs, 31, Swinburne University design graduate, director of Element design collective, and veteran of commissions for Liberty of London, AG men’s wear, Roy and Aesop. Bright, lightweight fitted cotton knits for summer, and for winter 2006, chunky hand knits. Investment fashion.

Manufactured: 90 per cent made locally.

Targets: Men, 20-45 years. Price range: $90-$600. Nineteen stockists including Husk, Sandonista, Charlie and Co, Urban Identity.

Future plans: Local market consolidation, then “global domination”.

info@leopoldsempire.com

http://www.leopoldsempire.com

RITEFSKYMACHEDA

Established: 2003 in Carlton. Partners Stephen Ristefsky, 31, commerce graduate, and designer Vincent Macheda, 27, employ a full-time press officer, John Ibrahim, and pattern-maker, Jo Grima. Casual, soft and easy innovative lounge-wear including woven cardigans, low-cut V-neck tops, ruched pants, athletic shorts and underwear.

Manufactured: 80 per cent locally and 20 per cent overseas.

Targets: Men, 18-38 years. Prices range from $40-$65 for underwear and $140-$220 for lounge-wear. Stockists include David Jones in the city and Chadstone.

Future plans: Local market consolidation then export to New York and London.

pr@ristefskymacheda.com

https://www.ristefskymacheda.com

 

Oscar Calvo The Sunday Age – Mercedes Benz Start Up Victorian final, 14 August 2005, Pg. 20

OC OSCARCALVO | Mercedes-Benz Start Up Victorian final

Oscar Calvo The Sunday Age, 14 August 2005, Pg. 20

EXPOSE

Start me up

Oscar Calvo was a Victorian finalist at the, ‘Mercedes-Benz Start Up Victorian final 2005.’

Mercedes-Benz Start Up is an exciting small business initiative that embraces the talents of the next generation of Australian fashion designers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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